The Best of Both Worlds

During Croda Inc’s Annual Suppliers’ Day Press Breakfast, the company’s Sederma division presented a window to the future of cosmetic actives by sharing how the company is leveraging its expansive testing capabilities with newly-acquired plant cell technology to uncover and harness unprecedented cosmetic benefits from nature.

Sonia Dawson, Marketing Manager – Botanicals explained that Sederma’s legacy of innovation is rooted in its expertise in substantiating efficacy of actives for visible cosmetic benefits. Citing the company’s introduction of cosmetic firsts from liposomes and peptides to devices specifically created for measuring skin firmness, Ms. Dawson explained how Sederma has led the industry in anti-aging cosmetic actives for nearly three decades. Sederma’s recent acquisition of IRB (Istituto di Ricerche Biotecnologiche) has given the company access to powerful technology that is allowing for the select amplification of new active ingredients from nature. By combining Sederma’s testing capabilities with IRB’s sustainable plant cell technology, Sederma and IRB have become the cosmetic industry’s new power couple.

Adding to the discussion, Sederma’s Marketing Director, Olga Gracioso and Technical Director, Alex Saunois joined via live video conference to further explain the future plans for this technology and revealed that Sederma is working on a large-scale research project that is expected to lead to the discovery of new actives from nature. Ms. Gracioso added that even with the significant benefits currently demonstrated, this technology is still only in the beginning stages, and will continue to evolve as a sustainable source of novel cosmetic actives for years to come.

Sederma illustrated the capabilities of this new technology with examples of two skin care actives launched after the IRB acquisition. Senestem™ is the first cosmetic anti-aging ingredient shown to manage micro-RNA to visibly reduce the characteristic signs of skin senescence. The testing images shared showed significant visible improvement in the skin’s viscoelastic properties (such as firmness, elasticity and smoothness) and age spot brightening after only one month of use. Sebuless™ is an all-in-one solution for oily skin that addresses key underlying causes of sebum overproduction and associated blemishes. The company explained that Sebuless is the first cosmetic ingredient tested using a novel predictive model with normal human sebocytes, which allowed elucidation of these major factors as well as a distinct path to mitigate their effects. Sederma shared that a consumer study was carried out on 100 adult volunteers (mean age of 24) and demonstrated that within only one month, Sebuless made the skin less shiny for 70% of the panelists.

More information about Sederma’s technology and product offerings can be found on the company’s website: